Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Listening

If you asked any hundred cooks which they thought was the most important of their five senses that they used in the kitchen, I doubt that even one would say their sense of hearing.

Unless you asked me.

Yes, taste and smell are critical (I’m no neuroscientist, but I know they are linked). Touch is important, too--the most delicate touch is required to pick the a perfect avocado or peach. As is sight--if the pork chops are green, don’t receive them.

But I can’t imagine cooking without my sense of hearing.

When I was very young I learned to cook with my ears. I’m not sure who taught me that, but I think it was my grandma. You can tell when a cake is done by pulling it out of the oven, getting your ear really close and giving a listen. Does it still sound wet? Then it’s not done. If you want to ruin the smooth top of your cake you can stick a toothpick in it confirm it.

Have you ever been in a night kitchen when the bread is coming out of the oven? The loaves are placed on racks to cool, and as they do the crusts crackle. Multiply the sound by a few hundred loaves, and the night kitchen is filled with the sound of the bread “singing.” It’s one of my favorite sounds ever.

When a steak is placed in a ripping hot pan to sear the meat, it sounds exactly like a hard rain on asphalt in the summer.

A fresh bean or carrot or spear of asparagus should have a satisfying "snap" when you break it. If it doesn't, then it's not fresh.

I know many a cook who depends on the sound of a timer for success.

And who doesn't smile at the sound of the whistle on the kettle?

But perhaps the best sound of all is the spontaneous exclaimation of "mmmmm" or "yum" from a happy mouth to the ears of the cook.

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